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The pineapple question: enzyme, not baby food

About 15 minutes

The pineapple question: enzyme, not baby food

Ok so we've got the chiles toasted, the marinade built, and now everybody asks me the same thing at this point: how much pineapple, and does it go in the blender with everything else. Good question. Wrong assumption usually attached to it.

Here's the thing. Pineapple in al pastor isn't really there for flavor, not at the marinating stage anyway. It's there for the enzyme. Fresh pineapple has bromelain in it, which is an enzyme that breaks down protein. That's the actual job it's doing while your pork sits in the fridge. The little bit of sweetness it adds is a bonus, not the point.

I know this because I got it wrong, confidently, the first time I made this at home. I figured more pineapple, more good, so I threw in way more than I needed and let it sit way too long. Pulled it out the next day and the texture was gone. Mushy. Looked like baby food, and it kind of tasted like it too. Ximena still brings this up. It's been years and she still brings it up.

What actually happens

Bromelain breaks down muscle fiber. In small amounts, for a reasonable amount of time, that's exactly what you want for al pastor — it tenderizes the pork and helps the marinade actually get into the meat instead of just sitting on top of it. But it doesn't know when to stop. Leave it too long and it keeps going past tender into mush, and once your pork's texture is gone there's no fixing it. You can't un-mush meat. Trust me.

So the numbers I actually use now:

  • About 1/2 cup crushed or finely chopped fresh pineapple per 2 lbs of pork. Give or take, but don't go heavier than that.
  • Marinate 4 to 8 hours. Not overnight, not two days. I know a lot of recipes tell you to marinate meat as long as possible and for most marinades that's fine. This one's different because of the enzyme. 8 hours is my max and honestly 4 to 6 is where I usually land.
  • If you're prepping the night before, marinate the pork without the pineapple, and stir the pineapple in the morning of, a few hours before you cook. That gives you all the flexibility without the risk of it going too long.

Fresh vs. canned

Use fresh pineapple if you can get it. Canned pineapple has usually been through a heat process that kills the bromelain, so it's not doing the enzyme job anymore — it's just sweet fruit at that point. That's not a disaster, your marinade will still taste fine, but you're not getting the tenderizing effect, and that's kind of the whole reason we're using pineapple instead of just adding sugar.

Dice it small, quarter-inch pieces or so, so it blends into the marinade instead of leaving big wet chunks sitting against your pork.

The toasting-just-right thing, applied here

This is basically the same lesson as the chiles, if you think about it. On my mission, the dad in our branch who taught me this whole process was real specific about the guajillos — toast em just until they smell awake, then stop, because a few seconds past that and you've burned the whole batch bitter. I found that out myself later, the hard way, alone in my kitchen, and had to do a DI run for a new pan I was so embarrassed about it.

Pineapple's the same idea, just on a slower clock. There's a window where it's doing exactly what you want, and past that window it's doing damage. The toasting window is 30 seconds. The pineapple window is measured in hours instead of seconds, but it's the same discipline — know your ingredient, respect what it's actually capable of, don't assume more time equals more good.

Opinion, while we're here

Salt your marinade, not just your meat separately. I see people build a beautiful marinade with all this chile depth in it and then they don't taste it for salt because they figure the meat will handle that part later. It won't. Taste the marinade itself before the pork goes in. It should taste a little aggressive on its own — it's going to mellow out once it's coating a couple pounds of pork.

Before next time

Grab your pineapple for next class — fresh, not canned, and don't peel and dice it until the day we actually marinate. If you want to practice the dice on your own kitchen counter this week, go for it, that's good knife practice either way. 🔥

The pineapple question: enzyme, not baby food · Mexican Street Food at Home · Utah Community Learning