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Cooking lentils to the right softness

About 20 minutes

Cooking Lentils to the Right Softness

Okay, so last time we picked lentils and rinsed them, and I told you rinsing matters more than people think. Today we're actually cooking them, and this is the lesson where I want you to stop looking at the clock and start looking at the pot.

Here's the thing — lentils don't have one correct texture. Dal for one meal might be thick and holding its shape, almost like a stew. Dal for another meal might be soupy enough to drink out of a mug, which, don't laugh, I have done. Both are right. It depends what you're serving it with and honestly what mood you're in. So my job today isn't to give you a number of minutes and walk away. It's to teach you what to look for, because that transfers to every batch you ever make.

Start with water, not stock

For dal, plain water is fine. I know that sounds like I'm underselling it, but the lentils themselves and the spices you bloom in later are doing the flavor work. Save your stock for the curries.

Rough ratio: for one cup of rinsed lentils, start with about three cups of water. That's a starting point, not a contract — you'll add more as you go if it looks dry.

Get it to a boil, then back it off

Bring the pot up to a full boil uncovered. You'll see foam come up, kind of a grayish scum. Skim that off with a spoon if you can — it's not dangerous, it's just starchy foam, but it can make your dal taste a little flat if you leave a ton of it in there.

Once it's boiling, drop it down to a low simmer. Not a hard boil the whole time — that'll cook the outsides of the lentils faster than the insides and you get a weird texture, kind of blown-out on the surface and still chalky in the middle. Low and slow is the move.

Partially cover it

I leave the lid cracked, not fully on. Fully covered and it can boil over the second you look away — lentil water foams up fast and it is a pain to clean off a stovetop, especially with our hard water leaving residue on top of the mess. Fully off and you lose too much liquid to evaporation and have to keep adding more.

How long, really

For split red lentils (masoor dal), you're looking at maybe 15-20 minutes to fall-apart soft. For whole lentils or something like chana dal, plan on 30-40 minutes, sometimes longer if they're older — and lentils do get older sitting in your pantry, which affects cook time more than people expect.

But don't trust my minutes over your own eyes. Here's what I actually watch for: the lentils go from looking like distinct little discs floating in water, to looking like they're starting to blur at the edges, to — if you want fully soft dal — basically dissolving into the liquid so you can't see individual lentils anymore, just a thick, uniform texture. Stir it and press one against the side of the pot with your spoon. If it mashes with basically no resistance, you're there. If it still feels like a bead, give it more time.

Add water in small splashes if it's looking dry before the lentils are soft. You want them to always be a little submerged.

A story about grinders, because it's relevant here too

This isn't really about lentils, it's about equipment, but stay with me. A while back I ground my own garam masala in a coffee grinder — the same one we used for coffee, because we only had the one — and the next morning Jason's coffee tasted like curry. He was such a good sport about it. I now own a dedicated spice grinder that lives in its own drawer and nobody touches it but me.

I bring this up because people ask me if they need a special pot for dal, and the honest answer is no, any pot works. But dedicate something if you're going to be making this a lot — a pot you know the quirks of, that you know boils over at exactly this point on your stove, that you know runs hot on one side. Knowing your own equipment is half of cooking, and it's the same reason I guard that grinder like it owes me money.

My actual opinion here

People skip dal because it looks humble sitting there in the pot, kind of beige, not much going on visually. But it's the cheapest thing I make and it's the best thing I make, and I'd pick it over the chicken curry most weeks if I'm honest. Lentils are a couple dollars a bag at Macey's. There's no reason not to have this in your rotation.

One caution

Once you start adding your tempered spices at the end — which is next lesson — the dal will be hot enough to spit a little when it hits the oil mixture. Stand back a second when you pour it in. Nobody's gotten hurt in my kitchen doing this, but it does pop.

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Before next time: Cook one cup of lentils to fully soft, no spices, just water and salt at the end, and taste them plain. You want to know what lentils actually taste like before we start dressing them up.

Cooking lentils to the right softness · Indian Home Cooking: Curries and Dal · Utah Community Learning